Sorry for the long delay in getting this up! The internet in
Windhoek was pretty unreliable and I’m only able to access internet at my
village school. But after a 15
hour flight, several hours in the Johannesburg airport, then another flight to
Windhoek, we finally arrived at our hostel on June 2nd. Windhoek is
very very different from what I expected. It is extremely German/European
influenced and didn’t feel all that much different from being home. Their malls
are actually probably nicer than ours but any line you stand in you must be
prepared to wait there for an ungodly amount of time. One Namibian nuance for
you: “now” means maybe within the next few days or maybe never, “now now” means
soonish, and “now now now” means actually right now (which is also probably
half an hour to an hour later than now in
our sense of the word. We spent the whole week going through orientation and
really getting to know the other volunteers as well as our Field Director and
Summer Coordinators Kaylan and Rachel. Getting to know them and all of our
volunteers has been such an amazing experience in itself. Everyone here is so
different and brings something special to the table in every situation. All
have the biggest and kindest hearts and I couldn’t ask for a better support
system while I am here.
I was extremely happy that we had training in lesson
planning, classroom management, and all of those other things that I have no
clue about since I don’t have a formal teaching background. We also had
language lessons according to which regions we would be staying in so I began
to learn the Oshindonga dialect of Oshiwambo. Pretty difficult but a lot of the
words are fun to say. Like omafufu, meaning hair and the response to all
greetings, EEEEHHHHH (picture a very loud inquisitive sound that isn’t actually
asking a question at all).
We visited Klein Windhoek, one of the more prominent areas
of Windhoek then traveled to Babylon, an informal settlement of aluminum scrap
shacks. Seeing the difference was incredible and the informal settlements like
Katatura (sp?) are far more prevalent. We then went to an open market in the
settlement where we ate fat cakes (a type of doughy goodness) and kapana
(grilled and heavily spiced meat). One of the biggest lessons I’ve learned
while here is to not ask questions when food is involved. It’s typically never
refrigerated and “fresh” can mean anything from “I just axed it in the sand
over there” to “It was killed fresh two weeks ago and I’m just going to go get
it out of my car.” Hmm sticking to being vegetarian looks better and better the
longer I’m here… Though I have to say braai spiced meat is delicious and I
haven’t gotten sick off of anything yet. Hopefully it will stay that way! We
also drink the water here straight out of the tap which was a big surprise. It
tastes a lot like chlorine but its bearable and actually tastes much better up
in the North.
Our last night in Windhoek Friday, June 8th, we
went to a local Herrero restaurant that Andrew Zimmerman has apparently also
been to…the potatoes were good…everything else scared me. But everyone should be
proud that I ate beef liver (one of those things where I just didn’t ask
questions until later…). Later Paul, my phenomenal friend from the UK,
convinced us all to go to a club after that even though most of us had to be up
at 530 the next morning to get lifts from the Ministry of Education into the
North. It was definitely an experience. It was fun to go out and dance and
finally let loose a bit after being cooped up in the hostel all week. (General
Namibian Rule #1: NEVER go out after dark. Even in groups.) We all had some
close run-ins with locals getting a bit friendly, but of course Paul and Benedict
always came to my rescue. Steve, one of our oldest but most spirited
volunteers, came along as well and danced better than any of us! I was also
told I was “very beautiful like a chicken” by a guy in the club…I was curious
what the heck that meant so I asked around and found out…if you’d like to know
shoot me an email, its quite entertaining or you can just leave that one up to
your own imagination.
The next day we all left for our villages. Roger, Steve,
Alida, Richard and I all took one combi (van-type thing) up to the North
together since we were all going to the Oshana region, though in different
villages. The drive was about eight hours and involved gospel, Prince, and
Blondie on repeat for hours while avoiding wart hogs. Good times.
We then had some confusion with principals so I ended up
waiting at a bar with Alida and her principal for mine to come pick me up. He
was so kind and told us about his childhood when the war was still occurring.
It was sad to hear that the heaviest fighting was around here and that everyone
could constantly hear gunfire around them until it was over. Freedom is
something you don’t take for granted here. My principal eventually showed up
and we piled all of my stuff into the back of his truck and proceeded down the
“treacherous” road leading to my village. I think I live the farthest out of
town from any of our volunteers and the road is immensely bumpy and in the middle
of a whole lot of nothing but it is absolutely beautiful. It is incredibly
peaceful with nothing but grass and semi-desert for miles around me. Grant, a
peace corps volunteer in my village, was extremely generous and helped me get
settled into my house then invited me back to his homestead, the only one I can
even see from where I live and where the school is located, to eat dinner with the
kids he lives with (their meme is out of town for a week or so). I tried the
local brew, some kind of fermented grainy thing, and mopani worms. Yep, that
happened. They’re actually fat caterpillars cooked up in butter from the forest
farther out from our village in the bush. Interesting. Not bad though, just
kind of salty.
The sunrises, sunsets, and night sky here are incredible.
Incredible is an understatement. The sheer amount of stars you can see is
amazing and the milky way is beautiful. You can actually see a very clear and
large milky way. Don’t think Ill ever get used to that one.
I start my first day tomorrow and hopefully the power will
be back on by then!